Uma Ubud

Class: Deluxe

Style: Modern design

Rooms: 29

Bali is back, as a holiday destination — many governments are finally easing their travel restrictions, and citizens of the remaining holdouts are, more and more, ignoring the warnings. Let's put things into perspective, Bali is easily safer than the subway systems of any major city. And, besides crowded Kuta, Bali has the highest concentration of sophisticated hideaways anywhere in the world - what better way to escape from it all. Many of the existing resorts have spent the last couple of years renovating, and there have been a few new openings.

One of the notable new projects is Uma Ubud, the newly opened Como hotel (brought to you by the minds behind the Metropolitans in London and Bangkok, among others). This is perhaps a slightly more pared-down affair than its sisters, though still luxurious; the Uma resorts are of a more ascetic bent than their decadent cousins.

And where better for a voyage of self-discovery than a tiny hillside village, nestled in the forested volcanic mountains that form the spine of the island, far, far away from the chaos of the noisy beachfront resorts? This is a peaceful place, and Koichiro Ikebuchi's design is meant to open the hotel to its surroundings — there is plenty of natural light and airflow, and the interiors blend a Zen simplicity with traditional Balinese materials.

The more extravagant suites come with private infinity pools, with stunning views of the valley and the river below, and all rooms have private terraces or courtyards. But the hard-core relaxation is to be found at the Shambhala retreat — a bit like a normal hotel spa but heavy on the yoga and meditation, and emphasizing fitness over pampering, health over skin care.

Perhaps the greatest delight of this mountainside location is that it affords the opportunity for exploration. Ubud is Bali's cultural center, with a vibrant arts scene, and there are any number of museums and temples to see. Traditional outdoor activities are available as well, from hiking to whitewater rafting and even volcano climbing.